6 Days Self-Guided Peaks of the Balkans

Arrival in Shkodra, a private transfer will be organized to take you from Shkodra to Theth. You will be comfortably accommodated at a guesthouse, ensuring a smooth and pleasant start to your stay.

The trek begins with one of Albania’s most iconic hikes, journeying from the village of Theth (728 m) over the majestic Valbona Pass (1759 m) to the charming town of Valbona (995 m), nestled in the heart of its namesake national park. This picturesque 20-kilometer trail traces the footsteps of an ancient mule track, connecting the tribal regions of Shala and Nikaj. Get ready for a scenic adventure through history and nature.

There are two possible routes from Valbone to Cerem: the ‘low’ (valley) route and the spectacular, the ‘high’ route via Prosllopi Pass (the one we do). This trail will go through Kollata and it is the longest trail of the hike. This has been opened as the usual Valbona – Cerrem through the ‘low’ trail is mostly a tractor trail offering very little. The Kollata trail is very nice and offers views on the steep rocky mountain of Kollata, which is used for climbing.

Today you will walk between two shepherd’s villages which are inhabited only during the summer in order to use the abundant pastures. Doberdol a village which is connected to the world only by small tracks is not reachable by cars. The village is situated below the triple-border point between Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. On the way you will pass through the village of Balqin where you can stop for a glass of milk served by the local shepherds.

This part of the mountains is under strict protection, as they are also home to the glacial lakes of Sulbica platou. Gashi valley was included in the UNESCO Natural World Heritage list in 2017.

On this day, you’ll cross from Albania to Montenegro, starting a shorter hike from Doberdol to Babino Polje. Near the beginning, climb the Three-Border peak to step into Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro in 15 minutes. Then walk along the Kosovo-Montenegro border before descending to Bogicevica Katun, a Montenegrin shepherd settlement. The hike concludes in Babino Polje, where the guesthouse host awaits

After a transfer from Babino Polje to Vusanje, you will begin the 23-kilometer hike to the historic Albanian village of Theth, which is famous for its traditional way of life and stone houses.

The trail winds through the rugged terrain of the Accursed Mountains (Prokletije/Albanian Alps), once a forbidden area in the Communist era. Alongside dramatic cliffs, you’ll encounter a military bunker and old border crossing signs upon entering Albania.

After the hike, you will be transferred to Shkodra.

Arrival in Shkodra, a private transfer will be organized to take you from Shkodra to Theth. You will be comfortably accommodated at a guesthouse, ensuring a smooth and pleasant start to your stay.

Your first day on the Peaks of the Balkans will begin with a transfer from Shkodra to the village of Ndërlyse, a small hamlet at the foot of the trail. The village lies along the Shala River, which has created beautiful waterfalls and rock formations resembling natural baths and pools. After a short exploration of the area, you will begin your journey toward Theth with an easy hike.

Cultural note: Ndërlyse and Theth are two Roman Catholic villages that are home to several small churches. In Ndërlyse there are the modest remains of the Saint Veneranda Church; however, locals still gather there to celebrate the saint every year on July 25. The most remarkable historic building is in Theth: the Lock Tower (Kulla e Ngujimit), which served as a self-imposed prison for men involved in murder who were seeking refuge from revenge killings under the Kanun law.

If you want, I can also make a slightly more “tour-operator style” version (more fluid and better for brochures/SEO) while keeping the same content.

There are two possible routes from Valbone to Cerem: the ‘low’ (valley) route and the spectacular, the ‘high’ route via Prosllopi Pass (the one we do). This trail will go through Kollata and it is the longest trail of the hike. This has been opened as the usual Valbona – Cerrem through the ‘low’ trail is mostly a tractor trail offering very little. The Kollata trail is very nice and offers views on the steep rocky mountain of Kollata, which is used for climbing.

Today begins with a transfer to the starting point of the hike in the village of Cerem. This stage is one of the shorter sections of the Peaks of the Balkans route. Shortly before reaching Bori Pass, located on the border between Albania and Montenegro, the trail passes a small seasonal Albanian shepherd settlement. From there, the scenic path continues through beautiful beech and birch forests. Many families in Cerem and Vusanje remain closely connected through blood ties and marriage.

Gerbaja is another detour from the classic version of our Peaks of the Balkans 2020 trail. All of our guides agree that it is a pity to come to the region and miss the view from Gerbaja. It is situated in Montenegro and considered the most beautiful valley in Tito’s Yugoslavia, now home to seven independent states. You will start the hike with a 20-minute transport to climb the Taljanka peak.

Cultural note: Gerbaja is home to a bronze-age rock engraving of a mother and father protecting their child from wolves. They call it The Great Mother. Locals believe that the rock has healing powers and helps women’s fertility.

From Vusanje you will begin the hike back to the historic Albanian village of Theth. The path passes along the craggiest part of the Accursed Mountains, which was a forbidden zone during the Communist era. The hike will start in direction of Ropojane valley with the rocky gullies on both sides. The valley is quite long and it mainly follows the 4WD track for about 6.5km until it meets the Ropojane Lake which is rarely filled with water, depending on the amount of snow in the previous winter. Therefore, a car transfer can be arranged to cover this whole section.

In addition to the dramatic cliffs that form the backdrop for the day’s hike, you will also see a military bunker and the old border crossing signs as you hike into Albania. The hike goes through Ropojane Lake, which also marks the border between the two countries. This hike is the rockiest one of the whole trip. It provides numerous mountains, meadows, and valley views. You will end in Theth to close the loop. After a short rest, you will be transferred to your hotel in Shkodra for the night.