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THE MOST STRIKING ASPECT OF EUROPE’S NEWEST NATION: ITS NORMALC

On display at the Ethnographic Museum in Kosovo’s capital of Pristina is a lady’s wooden shoe with a sole covered with intricate carvings and rich inlays of mother-of-pearl. It dates from the 18th century, but any woman would be proud to wear it, then or now.

The museum, which is in a former 18th-century manor house that once belonged to a wealthy Albanian family during Ottoman rule, also exhibits sumptuous textiles, jewelry and furniture, and includes a birthing